Super Cheap Hokkaido ebook preview
Welcome to Hokkaido
Welcome to Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island, just waiting to be discovered by the masses. It’s a quieter, more spacious and most importantly cheaper place to visit than the rest of Japan, and is full of unspoiled mountains to hike, hot springs to relax in and plenty of local delicacies to enjoy. From historical cities such as Hakodate, to huge ski resorts such as Niseko, to the beautiful flower fields of Furano, Hokkaido really stands out from the rest of Japan. With this guide, you’ll find out how to really enjoy it on a reasonable budget.
Compared to the rest of Japan, especially Tokyo and Kyoto, visitors can find some unbelievable prices in Hokkaido. While hostel rooms are often around $30 in Tokyo, don’t be surprised to be paying half that in rural Hokkaido. The island still has cheap convenience stores, supermarkets and chain restaurants, it’s just that when traveling around you may be a little further away from them than if you were in the big cities down south. Guesthouse owners and locals also appreciate more that visitors from abroad have made the effort to come up to the north too, so don’t be surprised to get a random free tour from a local!
The geography and less developed transportation infrastructure can make traveling here challenging at times. This book has been designed so you can see the top sights, as well as experience off-the-beaten-track spots, and all in an affordable and stress-free way.
A little bit of history
Up until the 15th century, Hokkaido was mainly populated by the aboriginal Ainu people, who had their own unique culture, language and traditions, some of which can still be seen today. It’s highly recommended to visit towns such as Abashiri to see the Ainu culture in person and to see what makes Hokkaido unique from the rest of Japan. There has also been a surprising amount of western influences over the years, such as the westerners who founded Hokkaido University in Sapporo. Hokkaido did change a lot as mainlanders came over nearly 1000 years ago and forced their customs on the Ainu, with much of Hokkaido’s traditions lost or faded, but there is now a concerted effort to protect and display these for tourists and locals alike.
How to save on your holiday with this book
Things to do
With this book you’ll be shown plenty of options for free things to do, as well as information on available discounts or places to try free samples. Try to do the cheaper or free activities first, then if you feel you need to do more, try the more expensive things in the area. For example, you may find after doing a free walk somewhere that taking that expensive ropeway up another mountain for a hike isn’t worth it.
Sample itineraries and discount passes
While Hokkaido has a smaller number of tourist spots to choose from than the rest of Japan, planning a trip can be difficult because of the infrequent bus or train routes. If you are a bit stuck, use the sample itineraries in this book to help you out.
Budget food
Hokkaido does have budget restaurant chains in the big cities, but you are just as likely to enter a cheap family-owned joint here. These are included on the maps, as well as in the Budget Food sections, as they can be tricky to find if you’re not a local. Don’t forget to consider buying food from supermarkets or convenience stores, especially if in a tourist town populated mainly with expensive restaurants.
Most of the budget restaurants have water jugs to refill your bottle. The 100-yen shops (around $1) are also listed, as you can buy almost anything, from microwavable curry to essential travel items. Japanese pharmacies and drugstores often have even cheaper prices for drinks and snacks as well. Tap water is drinkable.
How to use the maps
For hard to navigate towns, maps are provided to help you get around, with handy icons to show you exactly where all the cheap shops, restaurants and more are located. Landmark buildings and major hotels have also been included to aid in navigating around. A plus is that most of these landmarks have toilets if needed, plus many have free water fountains, which can be used to refill your water bottle and save on the cost of drinks. You can also save on transportation by using the recommended walking routes.
Map Legend
Map of Hokkaido
Sapporo (札幌)
The largest city in Hokkaido, Sapporo is quite a new city that only really sprung into life in the 19th century. With an easy-to-navigate, American-style grid system and a deep history of foreign influences, it definitely feels different to other Japanese cities. While the attractions here should not take more than a day or two to enjoy, it’s a great place to start your adventures from, especially with all the budget flights to nearby New Chitose Airport.
How to get around Sapporo
Sapporo has a well-developed public transportation system, with subway lines, buses and streetcars able to take you to any tourist spot or neighborhood. There is a local smart card called Sapica, which reduces prices by up to 10% and has a refundable deposit, as well as eliminating any extra charges when transferring. On the other hand, visitors can just use smart cards from other major cities instead, such as Tokyo’s Suica card, or Hokkaido’s card, Kitaca. Sapica is available from ticket machines at subway stations, while the Kitaca cards can be found in JR stations. Both cards 2000 yen (500 yen deposit, 1500 yen put on card)
Discount passes and tickets
One-Day Ticket for Subway Use
Allows unlimited rides on the subway system for a whole day. Subway fares start from 200 yen, so you’ll easily save a few hundred yen using this pass. Buy from any subway station ticket machine. There is also a cheaper pass, called the Donichika Ticket, available on Saturdays, Sundays, national holidays and New Year holidays. Adults 830 yen, children 420 yen. Donichika Ticket: Adults 520 yen, children 260 yen
Dosanko Pass
If you are staying on the streetcar line or plan to use it often, consider this pass. It allows unlimited use of the streetcars for a whole day for 1 adult and 1 child. As tickets cost from 170 one way, it’s a great deal for families. Note that it’s only available on weekends, national holidays and New Year holidays. Buy on the streetcar. 1 Adult + 1 Child 360 yen (combined ticket)
Common-Use One-Day Card
Allows unlimited use of the subway, streetcars as well as city buses for a whole day. If you plan to pack in a lot in one day and need more than one mode of public transportation, it’s a no brainer. Available to buy at any subway station. Adults 1000 yen, children 500 yen.
‘Sapporo Walk’ Sapporo Beer Garden and Factory Line (Loop Bus route 88)
Some attractions are a little away from any subway station. This loop bus takes visitors to the Sapporo Beer Garden, the Bus Center, Odori Park, Sapporo Clock Tower and Sapporo Station. Adults 210 yen, children 100 yen. One-day pass: Adults 750 yen, children 380 yen
Sapporo transportation map
There is usually more than one way to get anywhere in Sapporo. Use this map below to help you get around. Note that, for ease of reading, this map only includes major stations.
Things to do
Central Sapporo
Sapporo Beer Garden and Museum (サッポロビール園)
If you are into your beer, this place is a must. Located in red brick buildings built more than 100 years ago, it’s now registered as an official Hokkaido Heritage site. The beer museum gives an insightful look at the history and science of beer in Japan, such as displays of old fashioned posters used to introduce beer to Japan. Afterwards, guests can try out an exclusive selection of beers, as well as some old favorites. FREE entry and self-guided tour (beers from 300 yen) • 11am-8pm (last order 6:30pm) • By subway: 10 mins walk from Higashikuyakusho-Mae station. By JR train: 10 mins walk from Naebo station. By bus: Take the Loop Bus 88 (210 yen) • Tel: 011-748-1876 • Google Maps
Former Hokkaido Government Office (北海道庁旧本庁舎)
Also known as the Red Brick Office, this building was built in 1888 and is a stunning example of foreign influenced architecture. Inside there are lots of little exhibitions to check out, as well as a short introduction to the history and politics of Hokkaido. The gift shop also has some amusing, Hokkaido-themed presents. FREE • 8:45am-6pm • Between Sapporo and Odori stations • Google Maps
Botanic Garden (植物園)
Another good place to pass the time in Sapporo. Split into many different sections with around 4000 species in total, it’s a relaxing respite from the rest of the city. Adults 420 yen, children 300 yen, under 6 FREE • 9am-4:30pm (April to September), 9am-4pm (October to November 3rd) (closed Mondays) • 10 minute walk from Sapporo station or Odori Park • Google Maps
JR Tower (JRタワー)
The T38 Observation Deck is not an essential visit, but if you want to get a view over the city then this is the best option. Adults 720 yen, children 300-500 yen • 10am-11pm • In Sapporo station • Google Maps
University grounds (北海道大学)
The public is welcome to enter the large university grounds, which features a selection of 19th century buildings and statues commemorating the university’s western founders. FREE • 24h • 10 minute walk from Sapporo station or just outside Kitajunijo subway station • Google Maps
Odori Park (大通公園) and south Sapporo
Often lined with beer gardens and sculptures, Odori Park is a worthwhile place to visit almost any day of the year. It takes about 20 minutes to walk from one side to another.
Clock Tower (札幌市時計台)
A symbol of Hokkaido, this building is a great place to enter if you want to know about the influence the west made on Hokkaido. Built way back in 1878, it uses a grand clock brought over from Boston. The site is not too big, but if you are not interested in history, it’s best just to take some photos from outside and save on the entrance fee! Adults 200 yen, children FREE • 8:45am-5pm (closed on New Year’s day) • 10 minutes on foot from Odori station or Sapporo station • Google Maps
Shiryokan (札幌市資料館)
The former Sapporo Court of Appeals is another free place to check out for those interested in art and culture in Hokkaido. It’s not too detailed, but if you have time it may be worth checking out. They also often have fun activities for kids to participate in as well. FREE • 9am-7pm (closed Mondays) • Located on west end of Odori Park • Google Maps
Nijo Fish Market (二条市場)
Although not as big and impressive as Hakodate’s fish markets, it’s worth having a stroll around this market, seeing the locals at work and discovering all the strange fish on offer. FREE • 7am-6pm • 10 minute walk from Odori station • Google Maps
Susukino (すすきの)
Sapporo’s red light district. The shopping arcades right around Susukino station are not as sleazy and have loads of shops and restaurants to explore, with tax-free options galore.
Outer Sapporo
Moerenuma Park (モエレ沼公園)
Quite a surprisingly innovative mixture of modern art and architecture, designed by sculptor Isamu Noguchi, who wanted to create a place where art and nature come together. Has a playground for the kids and also provides a decent view over the city. FREE • 7am-10pm • Take the Toho Line to Kanjodori-Higashi station, then get bus no. 69 or 79 with Chuo Bus and get off at ‘Moerenuma koen higashiguchi’ (25 mins, 210 yen) • Mapcode: 9 741 565*47 • Google Maps
Sapporo Central Wholesale Market (札幌場外市場)
More than 60 stores packed together, selling fresh fish, seafoods and other traditional Hokkaido produce. Prices are reasonably cheap and some stores can cook the food for you, right there and then. FREE • 9am-3pm (closed Sundays) • Either take the JR train to Soen station from Sapporo (3 mins, 170 yen) or the subway from Odori station to Nijuyonken station (10 minutes, 250 yen). The market is a 10 minute walk from either station (on North 11, West 21) • Tel: 011 621 7044 • Mapcode: 9 549 090*60 • Google Maps
Mount Moiwa (藻岩山)
This forest-covered mountain makes for a great day trip. The view from the top is said to be one of Japan’s three best night views, with the observation deck providing spectacular views over the city lights. There are various options for getting to the top:
Hike up Mount Moiwa
Hiking up is a great way to save on the pricey ropeway and explore the forests. Routes can be reasonably busy, but at least this means you can’t get lost! There is a trailhead at the base of Moiwa Ski Resort, from where a 2.5km hiking route takes you to the summit. The start point is a short walk before the resort entrance, so just look out for the hiking map or follow other hikers. You can hike up and take the ropeway down, or vice versa, for about half the price.
Difficulty: Easy • Time required: about 80 minutes • From Sapporo station’s bus terminal, take the Jyotetsu ‘South 55 Moiwa Line’ bus (25 minutes, 200 yen) to South 34, West 11 (show 南34条西11丁目 to the bus driver to be sure), which is a short walk from the start • Mapcode: 9 340 167*25 (hiking start point)
Mount Moiwa Ropeway and Cable Car
The ropeway up gives stunning, unobstructed views via its large glass walls. The cable car then takes visitors through a serene forest to the top, but feel free to skip this to save on costs, as it’s a short walk instead. Ropeway + cable car: Adults 1700 yen, children 850 yen. Ropeway only: Adults 1100, children 550 yen • 10:30am-10pm (summer), 11am-10pm (winter) • Take the streetcar from Susukino to Ropeway Iriguchi (22 mins, 200 yen), which is near the ropeway • Mapcode: 9 400 432*00
By car on the Mount Moiwa toll road
If you have a car, you can also drive up to the car park at the top via a toll road. 660 yen • 10:30am-10pm (closed December to mid-April) • Mapcode: 9 369 344*88 (summit) • Google Maps
Sapporo Snow Festival (さっぽろ雪まつり)
The biggest and best festival in Hokkaido, if not Japan. A huge number of snow and ice sculptures are put on display, with everything from the Taj Mahal to Pokemon characters, at heights of up to 25 meters. The festival is located at Odori Park, Susukino and the further out Tsudome, which has lots of facilities for families, such as snow slides and snow rafting. FREE entry • Early February (see http://www.snowfes.com/english/ for the next festivals exact dates and events) • Tsudome is a 15-minute walk or short shuttle bus ride (100 yen) from Sakaemachi station on the Toho Line. There are also shuttle buses from Sapporo station and Odori Park (210 yen)
Volunteer guides and tours
The local Chamber of Commerce Sightseeing Volunteer Guide group runs free tours, such as a walk of the center. At least two people are required for a tour to go ahead, and reservations are required. See http://www.sight-de.com/guide/ or email intl@sapporo-cci.or.jp.
Budget food
Central Sapporo
1) Tonyoshi (とんよし) - Pork cutlet meals. Lunch sets 820 yen • 11am-2am • Sapporo Factory • Google Maps
2) Yoshinoya (吉野家) - Gyudon (pork on rice) eat-in and takeaway. Meals from 330 yen • 24h • In the underground shopping mall on the south side of Sapporo station • Google Maps
3) Curry Club Ono - Cheap Japanese curry. Meals from 600 yen • 10:30am-10pm • Near to Yoshinoya • Google Maps
4) Mos Burger (モス) - Cheap Japanese burger chain. From 220 yen • 10am-9pm • Esta mall • Google Maps
5) Yayoiken (やよい軒) - Traditional Japanese set dishes, with free rice and tea refills. Meals from 650 yen • 10am-12:30am • Short walk from Sapporo subway exit 22 • Google Maps
Odori and Susukino
6) Ramen Yokocho (ラーメン横丁) - Collection of noodle bars, some specializing in Sapporo’s famous butter miso ramen. Bowls from around 600-800 yen • Various times • Near Susukino station • Google Maps
7) Matsuya (松屋) - Gyudon and burger eat-in and takeaway. Gyudon bowls from 290 yen • 24h • Just outside exit 9 of Odori station and also near Susukino station • Google Maps (Odori), Google Maps (Susukino)
8) Sukiya (すき家) - Curry and gyudon. From 360 yen • 24h • Just outside exit 11 of Odori station • Google Maps
9) Bikkuri Donkey (びっくりドンキー) - Family favorites at reasonable prices. Meals from 750 yen • 9am-9pm • Just outside Odori station exit 15 • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
There are a few MyBasket minimarts (24h), which although having a small range, have dirt cheap prices. Toko (9am-11pm), next to Sapporo Factory, has a much larger range.
Shopping
Sapporo Factory (サッポロファクトリー) - If you want to do a bit of tax-free shopping, come to this mega mall. 10am-10pm • 15 minute walk from Sapporo station • Google Maps
Esta (札幌エスタ) - Tax-free options galore: Uniqlo and GU for cheap clothes, Bic Camera for electronics, ABC Mart for shoes and so much more. 10am-9pm • Outside Sapporo station • Google Maps
Tokyu Hands (東急ハンズ) - Huge variety store. 10am-8pm • Opposite Esta • Google Maps
Yodobashi (ヨドバシカメラ) - Big tax-free electronics store. 10am-10pm • Near Sapporo station • Google Maps
100-yen shops
Seria (セリア) - In 4Chome Plaza (Odori station, exit 10) and Sapporo Factory.
Daiso (ダイソー) - Has a branch conveniently located outside Sapporo station.
CanDo (キャンドゥ) - In Esta, and Ario Sapporo, next to the Sapporo Beer Museum.
Drugstores (ドラッグ ストア)
There are many around town, most open late. See the maps for the locations.
Recommended cheap accommodation
The Stay Sapporo Nagomi
Newly furnished, friendly hostel with new dormitory rooms. Dorm beds from 3000 yen • Near Susukino • http://thestay.jp/sapporo-nagomi/ • Tel: 011-222-0753 • Google Maps
Sapporo International Youth Hostel (札幌 国際 ユース ホステル)
Another reliable hostel, this one has more room types and is in a quieter location. Beds from 2700 yen • Near Gakuen-Mae subway station • http://www.youthhostel.or.jp • Tel: 011-825-3120 • Google Maps
Hotel Potmum Sapporo (ホテル ポットマム)
More upmarket hostel and hotel, which also has private rooms. Dorm beds from 3000 yen, private rooms from 8000 yen • Near Kikusui subway station • https://www.potmumhotel.jp/ • Tel: 011-826-4500 • Google Maps
Joy Cafe (ジョイ-カフェ)
Internet café with free drinks, comics and cheap food (showers 360 yen extra). 9 hours (9時間ナイトパック) from 1519 yen • Across the road from Esta mall, outside Sapporo station • Google Maps
How to get there and away
By air
From cities outside Hokkaido, it’s always cheaper to fly, unless you’re using a rail pass. Flights mostly arrive at New Chitose Airport.
By train
Sapporo station has plenty of fast ‘Limited Express’ trains from most of the main stations, so if you have a rail pass it’s easy, if sometimes time consuming, to get the train here. See relevant chapters for times and prices.
By bus
There are buses that go from Sapporo station or the bus center. Buses may be more convenient and cheaper than the trains. See the relevant chapters for more information.
By car
There are plenty of rental car companies to pick up a car from in Sapporo or at New Chitose Airport. To Otaru it takes about 40 minutes and to Noboribetsu it takes about one hour and a half. There are countless parking lots in the city, but most will charge a bit, so if your accommodation has free parking be sure to make use of this.
Mapcode: 9 522 149*25 (city center)
Tourist information
The Hokkaido-Sapporo Tourist Information Center is located in Sapporo station (8:30am-9pm).
Noboribetsu Onsen (登別温泉)
One of the best hot spring towns in Hokkaido, if not Japan. Noboribetsu is an excellent choice for budget travelers who want to enjoy a Japanese hot spring, or at least see the interesting volcanic activity that creates such experiences. The town is well set up for tourists, with an excellent choice of free things to do, such as plenty of walking routes and a footbath.
Getting around
The best way to get around Noboribetsu is on foot. The paths between each tourist spot are short, plus it’s a great way to escape the tour buses. Maps and signs show where to go, so it’s also very easy. Most should be able to do all in a day. It’s also possible to drive to some spots.
Things to do
Jigokudani (登別地獄谷)
Also known as Hell Valley, this hellish area has volcanic steam blowing out from under the ground and hot spring water gushing out, then down to the local resorts. The water has reacted with the ground to make a hellish yellow, brown and grey surface, which visitors can safely explore on boardwalks. Very atmospheric and a great place to take some amazing pics. FREE • 24h • Located a short walk from town • Google Maps
Tessen-Ike (鉄泉池)
Watch the hot spring water bubbling out of one of its main sources. Bring something to wipe your glasses, this place gets steamy! FREE • 24h • End of Jigokudani
Oyunuma Pond (大湯沼)
Sulfurous lake approximately 1 km in circumference. You used to be able to take a boat ride on it, but don’t get in, it’s 130°c at the bottom! Also next door is Okunoyu (奥の湯), a fascinating bubbling volcanic mud bath. FREE • 24h • 17-minute walk from Jigokudani, via Oyunuma Nature Trail 1+2, or a short drive from the town • Mapcode: 603 318 005*66 • Google Maps
Oyunumagawa Natural Footbath (大湯沼川天然足湯)
A short walk through this lovely forest leads you to a free hot spring footbath. The water is lukewarm, so will suit anyone. There is also an observatory along the way. FREE • 24h • Head around Oyunuma Pond, then down the Oyunumagawa Sightseeing Pathway for 10-15 minutes. Walk down road at end to return to town, via the blue Oyaku-kizo statue (親子鬼像) • Mapcode: 603 318 005*66
Gokuraku Shopping Street (極楽踊り)
Sengen Park and geyser (泉源公園の間欠泉)
You can’t miss this noisy hot spring source. It sounds like a monster and kids and adults alike love to see how close they can get. FREE • 24h • Center of town • Google Maps
Oni-Bokora statues (鬼祠)
Get yourself a selfie or two in front of these rather gruesome looking monster statues, just opposite Sengen Park. The little shrine next door is also worth a peek if you have time.
Takimotokan (第一滝本館)
While the rooms at this hotel will be out of the price range of many travelers, Takimotokan has some excellent hot spring baths that day visitors can enjoy. Drinking a beer while enjoying a hot spring with a view over Jigokudani really is bliss. This hot spring is regarded as one of the best in Japan, with a huge collection of different baths and great facilities. 9am-4pm: Adults 2000 yen, children 1000 yen. 4pm-6pm: Adults 1500 yen, children 750 yen. Free 24h access if you stay at nearby Takimoto Inn • Across the road from Sengen Park • Google Maps
Budget food
Most people staying in one of the expensive hotels here will eat there, so budget travelers should go to one of the convenience stores or check out these places:
1) Isekura (いせくら) - Old-school Japanese BBQ spot, which also has traditional rice bowls and ramen options. Bowls from 750 yen, small plate dishes from 540 yen • 6pm-1am • Near 7-Eleven • Google Maps
2) Tenho Ramen (ラーメン天鳳) - Classic, unpretentious ramen bar. Ramen from 750 yen • 11:30am–2pm, 6–11pm • Opposite Isekura on Gokuraku Shopping Street • Google Maps
3) Pizzeria Astra - Casual pizza joint. Pizzas from 500 yen • 11:30am-4pm, 8pm–1am • Between 7-Eleven and Seicomart on Gokuraku Shopping Street • Google Maps
Cheap supermarkets (スーパー)
While there aren’t any big supermarkets in the onsen town, there are a few convenience stores (see map for locations) which sell hot food, as well as sandwiches, cup noodles and microwavable dishes. There is a supermarket on the way from Noboribetsu station called Co-op (コープさっぽろ のぼりべつ東店), which is a five-minute walk north up the main road from the station, that has loads of options to stock up on food (9am-8pm).
100-yen shops
CanDo (キャンドゥ) - Located halfway down Gokuraku Shopping Street. 10am-8pm
Drugstores (ドラッグ ストア)
Satudora (サツドラ) has two branches in the town center (10am-10pm).
Recommended cheap accommodation
Takimoto Inn (滝本イン)
Nice budget hotel with reasonably spacious rooms. If you stay here entrance to Takimotokan hot spring is free, just show your room key when entering. Also has a bus service from Sapporo for just 1000 yen. Rooms from 6630 yen • Tel: 0143-84-2205 • http://www.takimotoinn.co.jp • Google Maps
Noboribetsu Guest House Aka & Ao (登別ゲストハウス赤と青)
Hostel near the train station, with various types of basic dorm rooms. Sometimes includes free breakfast on Booking.com. Dorm beds from 2800 yen • Tel: 0143-83-7680 • https://aka-ao.jp/en/ • Google Maps
Nennomori Porotonomori Camping Ground (白老ふるさと２０００年ポロトの森)
Plenty of space for camping, as well as bungalows for reservation, all amongst forest. There are lots of facilities, plus a small shop. Bookings are done over the phone, so ask at a hotel or tourist center before if you want to call. From 400 yen for adults, 300 yen for children • Tel: 0144-85-2005 • Mapcode: 545 252 612*33 • http://www.jbbqc.com/poroto_camp/info.html • Google Maps
How to get there and away
By train
There are usually one or two Limited Express trains every hour to Noboribetsu station from Sapporo (75 mins, 3960 yen) or Hakodate (150 mins, 6370 yen). You can also go by local train from Sapporo (2 hours, 2160 yen). Once at Noboribetsu station, take a local bus to Noboribetsu Onsen (340 yen).
By bus
From Sapporo station or the bus terminal there are buses every hour or so to Noboribetsu station (2-3 hours, 1850 yen). From here you can head on the bus to Noboribetsu Onsen (340 yen). Some hotels have direct buses, so be sure to enquire when you book.
By car or motorbike
Noboribetsu Onsen is around three hours from Hakodate, one and a half hours from Sapporo and 50 minutes from Toyako Onsen. Useful Michi-no-eki roadside stations: To Sapporo via Route 36 at Mapcode 113 413 623 • To Toyako Onsen via Route 453 at Mapcode 321 498 699
Mapcode: 603 257 766*85 (town center)
Tourist information
The Tourist Information center has lots of extra resources and super helpful staff (9am-5pm).
